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CMT
06-28-2007, 12:17 PM
1997 M3.

I have owned this car for a very long time, and have seen it through a few different stages of modifications, and last year I came to a crossroads - Either send the M3 down the road for something newer, faster, and more reliable, or address the issues that I have had with the car since day one. As any 1995-1999 M3 owner (referred to as the "E36" M3 using its chassis code) will tell you, the car can always use more power, and mine was no different. The European M3 had a much more robust engine that made 320 hp compared to the relatively uninspiring 240 hp found in the US models, and most US owners really felt shortchanged.

I tried it all. Intake, exhaust, software, and finally a shorter final drive - I had a 3.64 rear end built to replace the 3.23, and while this really helped get the car out of the hole, and the increased 60% lockup over the stock 25% also helped with traction issues, the car still fell on its face over 6000 RPM because there just wasn't enough engine to motivate it.

A lot of E36 M3 owners turn to forced induction to handle the power issue, but I am an NA guy. If I couldn't find a way to upgrade the car to my power standards without resorting to stuffing either a supercharger or turbo system under the hood, then I fully planned to sell the car. Luckily for me, a built IP-class race engine came up for sale through a friend's BMW performance shop, and I jumped on it.


Out with the old:
http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m1.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m2.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m3.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m4.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m5.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m6.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m7.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m8.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m9.jpg


Empty.

http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m10.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m11.jpg


The new head
- Ferrea High Performance Valve Springs
- Ferrea Spring Seats
- Ferrea Titanium Retainers
- SERDI 5 angle valve job
http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m12.jpg


The new block
- Forged Wiseco Overbore Piston Set, half the weight of the stock pistons
- 0.025" overbore, 3.4250" bore (86.995mm).
- New rings, wrist pins & clips.
- New OEM Rods, Polished Crank, Magnafluxed Block,
- New vanos gears, main chain tensioner, cam chain tensioner,
- New cam chain guide, race quality chains
- Sunbelt cams
http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m13.jpg


In with the new:
http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m14.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m15.jpg


Installed:
http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m17.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m18.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m19.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m20.jpg


http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m21.jpg



On the dyno:
http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/m16.jpg

http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/DynoFinal.jpg

Before, with the old engine, I made 215 whp / 220 ft lbs of TQ. The car wasn't necessarily slow, as long as one wasn't comparing it to stalwart American muscle, but the new engine was an epiphany. A revelation, even - No longer was I easy stoplight prey for Mustangs and stock C5 Corvettes, and neither did the car fall on its face after 2nd gear. Now it pulls like a freight train all the way to redline. In the end I could not have been more satisfied. I had completely refreshed the car, and actually had a decent sleeper on my hands because no one expects an old E36 M3 to step quite this hard without an intercooler sticking out of the front valence.

CMT
06-28-2007, 12:30 PM
Of course, nothing gold can stay. After putting 4000 fun-filled miles on the car last season, calamity struck in the form of a wasted flywheel, which unbalanced the crank, and caused a nightmarish whine/vibration inside the cabin. I couldn't take it over 6000 RPM without the car shrieking, so I sent it back to the shop for diagnosis.

That was in February, and things have gone terribly wrong since then, the quintessential "one thing after another" of a custom build. :(

When I can bring myself to discuss it, I'll continue the story.

CMT
07-20-2007, 11:08 AM
Now, now, don't everyone reply to this thread at once. Due to the overwhelming response I will get to all of your questions in the order in which they were asked, just give me some time to sort through the volume of responses and I will answer them down the line!

I think I can continue with the story now.

Calamity struck early one February evening as I was driving home. I brought the car to redline while merging onto 15, and a high-pitched shriek invaded the cabin with enough accompanying vibration to leave me crosseyed. It was the sound of not-so-good things. The new cams and upgraded head allowed the engine to spin about 400 RPM higher than normal S52s, but I had stopped bringing the engine to redline once I saw the power plateau at 7000 RPM on the dyno sheet. Something was seriously wrong, and I knew that this horrible new sound was indicative of a serious harmonic imbalance.

I limped the car back to the shop that had performed the swap, and a few days later the verdict came in - the flywheel was wasted:

http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/cmtflywheelold.jpg

Mmm. Nice and scored. I guess the fact that this clutch was rated to handle 600+ horsepower and the kind of monster TQ figures from turbo M3s meant nothing - It couldn't handle the excessive RPM of the new engine, and was thought to be responsible for the in-cabin drama I was experiencing at redline. While we were in there I elected to replace the heavy-duty clutch along with it, and about a week later I was driving my car home.

New flywheel:

http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/clutches-etc.jpg

http://mysunforums.com/content/RJ/content/myrj/ccc/pics/M3/cmtnewflywheel.jpg

I made it all the way home, and pulled into the garage, at which point I pulled the car out of gear, heard a stomach-sinking clunk, and then was unable to engage any gear. At that point I had already begun to assume my current Zen attitude about the thing, as everything felt like it was on the precipice of going terribly wrong when I first heard that vibrating scream a month earlier, and this was just me being right as usual. The next day the shop sent a tow truck down to pick the car up, and that was the last I saw of it.

That was February 28th, and things had only just begun to go wrong.

CMT
10-18-2007, 12:59 PM
I am going to begin to conclude this thread, as I now have the car back, and while its issues aren't fully sorted, the car is running, the new engine has been broken in, and I am scheduled for dyno time to check its power and A/F ratios. It's been a long wait, but hopefully this light at the end of the tunnel that I am curently enjoying does not turn out to be a bullet train. :cool:

The short was this - the engine blew. The inferior old flywheel could not handle 7400 RPM and it wasted the crank. The engine was pulled out, torn apart, and ultimately reconstructed with the head rebuilt and decked. the entire process took about 7 months for the shop to identify the problem, and while it drove me crazy at times to see everyone enjoying their toys this summer, I waited patiently. To their credit, I was not charged a dime for the work, as they considered it all to be under warranty.

Here is the car as it sits today:

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/1stM3Pic.jpg

We will see what tomorrow's dyno brings at Debaise Brothers in Wallingford. I have my fingers crossed.

Happy
10-19-2007, 11:06 AM
I've had fun (and learned quite a bit) following your car story. I just gave up my 8 year old Suzuki for a new Prius and am longing for my good old Suzuki days. I should have fixed her up and kept her going. Good luck with your transportation!

CMT
10-20-2007, 11:49 AM
Thank you Happy! It has been a long process requiring a lot of patience to finally get this fully sorted out. I completely understand what it is like to switch vehicles thinking that it is the "smart" move but this isn't always the best course of action if you are driving a car that you enjoy. :/

I have some good pictures and even video from last night's dyno time at Debaise Brothers in Wallingford, and I will post them when I have them processed. Things turned out well. The car has picked up a lot of power since the rebuild, and (with a hearty knock on wood) I can continue to enjoy it for what little time I have before I put it away for the winter. :D

MR.E36i
11-05-2007, 07:11 AM
Hey CMT you got a very nice M3

just would like to ask you

is your new pistons are high compression ??

how did you finde the sunbet cams ? are they (long duration cams) ??

have you test you car in 1/4 mile or ?? what was you best ET ?
what do u expect ?

am i progress with the same set up on my M3 :) just whant to know what is your feeling with this st up ??

( whaT IS YOU FLYWHEEL BRAND) IT LOOKS GREAT

tjohnl
11-06-2007, 09:40 AM
buy some windows for you house and not more toys for your car

CMT
11-06-2007, 10:08 AM
Hey CMT you got a very nice M3

just would like to ask you

is your new pistons are high compression ??

The engine runs at stock compression in the interests of longevity. I did not want a super-high-strung motor that would require a rebuild after hours of use, but rather something that would be more reliable, and give me a few years before a rebuild, and even then it would hopefully only be the head that needed it. Those titanium retainers aren't supposed to be the best for street use, so I have to keep an eye on them.


how did you finde the sunbet cams ? are they (long duration cams) ??

The Sunbelt cam kit is available here:

http://store.bimmerworld.com/shared/StoreFront/product_detail.asp?RowID=749&CS=bimmerworl&All

But you need to be very, very sure that the shop that installs them knows how to set the cams and VANOS correctly, as they can be tricky to get perfect and the car will not run right. The Sunbelt cams are the largest cams available for an OBDII E36 M3, and while they classically do not have quite the low or midrange TQ of the Schrick cams, they do usually provide an increase in top end power. Right now I am running a Rogue Engineering Stage I clutch and LTW flywheel setup, and unfortunately it does not look like the clutch is strong enough to hold the power. It can handle the power just fine in-gear, but when I ham-fist a WOT upshift, it slips a bit. Not too badly, but enough to delay the forward thrust for about a second, which is enough to be extremely frustrating. I need to upgrade it, and it's brand new. Which is also, obviously, extremely frustrating. :/



have you test you car in 1/4 mile or ?? what was you best ET ?
what do u expect ?

I have not. I have thought about it, and I suppose that I would be happy with low 13's if I could get a decent 60', but who knows. If it aint been run, it aint been done, right? :D


am i progress with the same set up on my M3 :) just whant to know what is your feeling with this st up ??

( whaT IS YOU FLYWHEEL BRAND) IT LOOKS GREAT

If you are building the car to run the quarter mile, NA isn't probably the best way to maximize your power-per-dollar. If you are looking to run the lowest ETs, either a Technique Tuning turbo kit:

http://techniquetuning.com/

or perhaps a VF supercharger might be better suited for your needs:

http://techniquetuning.com/

Both will either put you at or around 300 whp, and this is not a number that an NA S52 can touch. They are also reportedly both extremely reliable kits, and were I interested in FI for my M3, the choice would have been between these two.

Good luck whatever the choice man!

CMT
11-06-2007, 10:13 AM
buy some windows for you house and not more toys for your car

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/smiles/rofl.gif

So.....Just because I took a picture of the M3 in front of an abandoned building, that must be "me house," right? So does that make this my parking garage? In front of MY office building? It's a pretty sweet setup if I do say so myself, I must be doing OK!

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w0.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w1.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w2.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w3.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w4.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w5.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w6.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w7.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w8.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w9.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w10.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w11.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w13.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w14.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w15.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w16.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w17.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/wax/w18.jpg

CMT
11-06-2007, 10:20 AM
So, to finish up the saga of this build, I did finally dyno the car at Debaise Bros in Wallingford, CT (http://debaisebros.com/). Great shop, and great guys. I am happy to report that the output was more than satisfactory, and that the car seems to be running well. In fact, it is running better than ever, and has picked up a good amount of power throughout the entire RPM band, but as usual still falls on its face at about 6500 due in no small part to my stock headers. Which is fine by me - I like still having room to upgrade a bit, but for now I am more than happy with the car as it sits. :D

10 MB dyno video (http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/stuff/DynoM3.wmv)

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/dyno/d3.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/dyno/d02.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/dyno/d4.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/dyno/DynoSmall.jpg

Seasonal Fall pics:
http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/s3.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/s8.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/s4.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/s7.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~ctroiane/pics/m3/07/s6.jpg

MR.E36i
11-08-2007, 12:34 PM
i can go for FI but our class in drag chapion is( Street) wich means non Turbo/SC or NOZ, so am looking for the max power of my engine but NA,, :cool: :cool:


CMT,
what do u suggest me ??

i wana bulid that S52 to maximumm power !

CMT
11-09-2007, 07:25 PM
i can go for FI but our class in drag chapion is( Street) wich means non Turbo/SC or NOZ, so am looking for the max power of my engine but NA,, :cool: :cool:


CMT,
what do u suggest me ??

i wana bulid that S52 to maximumm power !

Gearing is going to be critical. I would call Diffsonline.com (http://www.diffsonline.com) and talk to them about what you want for a rear end. I run a 3.64 and that is the recommended gear for a different kind of track, as I suspect it would hamper a straight .25 mile with too many shifts. On the other hand, a 3.91 might be just the thing to wail you past the line at max speed, but even the 3.64 would require a costly shift to 4th before the end, and this just doesn't sound optimal for the kind of maximum thrust you are looking for.

Which begs the question - How fast do you want to go? Lightweight pistons? Shaved crank? Do you want to put $15K into that engine, get the 300 whp mark, and have the engine life measured in hours before a rebuild? Is this going to be a straight-up drag car only? Will it have a full interior? The final, and always vulgar question that I detest asking, is how much do you want to spend? Because when it comes right down to it, it would be cheaper to swap in an LS1 if you are looking to make the E36 an NA dragway champ.

At the very least, you need the cam kit and new gears. That stock 3.23 you are running with 25% lockup does not allow for launches at or around peak torque unless you absolutely gorilla the clutch, and while the stock clutch is nice and strong, it's not Samsonite, and it will need replacing with something that can hold a 4000+ RPM launch. Something you can whomp on and not worry about.

I also highly suggest inspection your rear subframe, and having reinforcement plates welded in. Your 99 already has reinforcements welded there that the 95 M3s did not, but it is not proof against constant abuse. I would also suggest a nice set of coilovers from TC Kline, that can be raised and lowered on a whim, and more importantly soften the dampening with a few clicks of a remote wheel, and that you can then jack the rear up all the way before racing. It will allow for more squat at the launch, transferring more power to the wheels, and really stress the heck out of the drivetrain if you are running slicks, which it sounds like you will be.

MR.E36i
11-13-2007, 03:57 AM
yup this is what i have done for the time been,, would like to ask you about somethings and plz post your comment ,

my car is M3 95 convertible

The plan is to hit 12's in 1/4 mile;)

>will RUN 3.73 LSD Diff
>i have done the reinforcement plates into my car
>i will try to reduce the weight as much as i can ( remove everything befor race, seat's.....etc )
> i will run stock buttom (just for the time been) but i will renew the engine ( new piston ring, bearing,.....etc)
>
this is the set up that am thinking of,

OBDI
Sunbelt cam's (280/272) long duration
M50 intake
24Lp injectors
Euro 3.5" HFM
Long tube hedars
free flow catabck
3 angle valve
Extream port and polish head
3.73 LSD Diff
Weld lightweight Racing wheel,front Runner, Et drag slick


and am thinking to install the Euro ITB's into my US Engine :cool:

http://www.x88x.com/imgfiles/XWq40058.jpg (http://www.x88x.com/)

http://www.x88x.com/imgfiles/JWR40129.jpg (http://www.x88x.com/)

so what do you suggest me , :) :) , what part to go with and other to replace ,

CMT
11-13-2007, 07:53 PM
yup this is what i have done for the time been,, would like to ask you about somethings and plz post your comment ,

my car is M3 95 convertible

The plan is to hit 12's in 1/4 mile;)

>will RUN 3.73 LSD Diff
>i have done the reinforcement plates into my car
>i will try to reduce the weight as much as i can ( remove everything befor race, seat's.....etc )
> i will run stock buttom (just for the time been) but i will renew the engine ( new piston ring, bearing,.....etc)
>
this is the set up that am thinking of,

OBDI
Sunbelt cam's (280/272) long duration
M50 intake
24Lp injectors
Euro 3.5" HFM
Long tube hedars
free flow catabck
3 angle valve
Extream port and polish head
3.73 LSD Diff
Weld lightweight Racing wheel,front Runner, Et drag slick


and am thinking to install the Euro ITB's into my US Engine :cool:

what do you suggest me , :) :) , what part to go with and other to replace ,

Are you outside the United States? The US only received M3 convertibles in 1998 and 1999. And if you are, do you have the Euro motor? Or is your car an engine swap? Not that it really matters, as you are going for maximum acceleration regardless, so if you have the S52 then it's fine to just start from there.

I wouldn't waste your time with the ITBs. From what I have seen, they don't make too much of a difference on S52s and you will get the same or similar gains from the Samco TB boot and a BBTB (Big Bore Throttle Body). Our engines lack the dual VANOS of the Euros, which is what justifies those ITBs, so save the money for something more worthwhile - Like lightweight pistons. I highly suggest this modification, because while they will not show any power on a dyno, they greatly improve acceleration as the engine spins to redline so freely you would almost think it is a V8. My pistons are half the stock weight, and you can see the way my RPM and speedo climbs in my video - The LTW pistons are one reason why my car is so viciously fast for an NA M3. I am also slightly overbored, so my pistons are also larger than stock, but you may or may not want to look into this option for yourself.

I would also suggest as much lightening to that car as possible. Remove the seats, and maybe even the door panels, along with everything you can to strip that convertible of its weight. As it sits it is already about 250-300 lbs heavier than an E36 coupe due to its structural fortifications, and this will be a handicap no matter how much weight you can pull out of it.

For headers, since you are running the OBDI Sunbelt cams that are even more aggressive than my OBDII "street" versions, I would go with either KromerKraft (with a custom midpipe) or the full European SuperSprint setup with the SuperSprint midpipe to a nice free-flowing catback. If you plan on driving this car at all on the street, it is going to be LOUD, so you might want to go with a more tame-sounding exhaust like the SuperSprint given that it is going to be stupid loud regardless of what rear muffler you run. I also suggest welding your oil pump nut on, as it is known to pop off during extreme runs, and I personally had this happen to me. Twice. :/

Tuning will be an issue. Do you have someone that knows how to tune? Will you be sending your ECU back and forth to Bimmerworld after each subsequent dyno run so they can lean it out or add fuel wherever it is needed? That is how mine was tuned, and while it wasn't optimal, I am still very satisfied with my A/F ratio. It's not bad.

While those OBDI Sunbelts can technically rev to 7600 on your stock valvetrain, don't do it. Trust me. Do not, under any circumstances, allow your rev limiter to be set higher than 7200 RPM or you are asking for engine trouble. And I mean begging for underhood drama. The S52 just isn't meant to rev past 7000 RPM, and rarely makes power past 7000 RPM, so keep it to 7200 RPM for some room to move past the 7K mark. Finally, get the car dyno'd and then you will know your optimal shift points.

With your projected mods, some M3s out there are making around 270-275 whp, and that's no joke for NA E36 power. On slicks, with the right launch (again, where a good clutch setup will be critical), 12s are possible. I don't think you will be deep into the 12s, but I do think that 12s are possible. Hopefully you will prove me wrong and run a 12.4 @ 110 mph!

MR.E36i
11-15-2007, 11:19 AM
Thanx boss for your support,

Am starting now in oredring some part's and installing the buttom engine part's,, i will go ahead with those set up that you gave me and ill keep you update on my records (hopefully we will start by january .DRAG RACE)

, let's keep in touch
(ebr36i@hotmail.com) :D :D

Thanx again

enjoy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFwPk17ds50

this was here in Bahrain (gulf region)
it's my OLD M52 2.8 with a little modifide engine (stock internals)

CMT
11-15-2007, 12:00 PM
No problem man! And good luck! If I can help you with anything else, you know where to find me. :D

edit -

That is a great time for an M52. US E36 M3s with bolt-ons have trouble constantly breaking into the 13's here, despite the car suppposedly being capable of high 13's stock. It's like the few stock E46 M3s that have dipped into the 12's over the past few years...everyone SAYS it's possible, but few people have ever seen it happen.

CMT
11-16-2007, 09:49 AM
I have done some more research for you, and whlie the SuperSprint Euro headers will work, the KromerKraft headers will give you more usable power "under the curve," and would probably be better suited to drag racing than the Euro SS variants:

KK Headers:
http://www.cssmotorsports.com/kromer_headers.htm

Also, since you are running the Sunbelt cams, I also found something that I will also personally be picking up for myself, and that takes the guesswork out of setting the VANOS perfectly for the Sunbelt cams:

http://www.drvanos.com/sunbelt.html


If you own or are considering a set of Sunblet cams, be aware that Sunbelt recommends the intake cam be configured with no more than 8mm of total travel when the vanos advances. This is done for two reasons...

First, the amount of valve overlap engineered into the Sunbelt cams is what gives them the additional top end performance over other cams. The valve overlap is a critical part of performance tuning when it comes to cam lobe design, and a very specific setting is needed to open the intake valves at the optimum time at a given RPM to achieve the best performance.


I am sold. Sold, sold sold. From what I have read this VANOS unit gets rid of the noisy issues that even new VANOS units can have, and that all develop over time, along with providing smooth and consistant pulling power all the way to redline.

This is good stuff. I think I'm going to order mine today. :D

CMT
06-03-2008, 03:38 PM
It was a rough weekend. :(

FRIDAY
I always thought I'd have you until I someday had a child old enough to drive, but it looks like it wasn't meant to be. For those that will inevitably ask, here is what happened:



I was sitting behind an Audi in the left lane of the Merritt, cruising home from renting some videos. I reached to turn up the radio, and suddenly heard the screech of tires. I looked up, processed that the tail of the Audi was in the air and under full brake, and panic-braked as well. I was able to scrub off a lot of speed, and get it down under 50 mph, but as the Audi slammed almost full bore into the minivan that had jumped in front of him at the last minute, the minivan was sent into the guardail, where it bounced up and back around, and it struck me in the front 3/4 of the car.

Hard.

My momentum pushed the minvan AND the Audi into the right guardrail, where the minvan got sandwiched between me and the Audi. My first instinct was to get the hell out of the car because my tail was still sticking way out into oncoming traffic, and I was able to get clear immediately....and realized that my M3 is most certainly 100% gone with the wind - but I am alive, a little shaken to be sure, but alive. The car did what it was designed to do and took the hit for me.

The Audi driver was livid - The minivan driver turned out to be an uninsured musician, and he ended up getting cited. In the end, I guess the real luck of the night was that nobody got seriously hurt or killed.


http://www.ziplink.net/~jnocerin/goodbye/g1.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~jnocerin/goodbye/g2.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~jnocerin/goodbye/g3.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~jnocerin/goodbye/g4.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~jnocerin/goodbye/g5.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~jnocerin/goodbye/g6.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~jnocerin/goodbye/g7.jpg

SATURDAY

I went to see her for what may prove to be the last time.

http://www.ziplink.net/~jnocerin/goodbye/g8.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~jnocerin/goodbye/g9.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~jnocerin/goodbye/g10.jpg

http://www.ziplink.net/~jnocerin/goodbye/g11.jpg

USAA Claims: Do you have any upgraded parts on the car?

Me: Do you have a few hours?

After I was done filing the claim, the nice lady apologized, and said that her software was showing the car to be a "probable loss." As expected, no big surprise there. I have an adjuster coming out to look at the car next week, and then I am sure the dance will begin. She did take down all of the aftermarket modifications that I had, and actually specifically asked about them which I suppose is a good thing....but who knows. USAA has been a great company to deal with so far, and there is no reason for me to expect things to change.

I have my fingers crossed.

Aiden
12-21-2011, 07:55 AM
The very surprising thing is the look and the quality which you have maintained.Your model is not latest and it is 10 years old but i am amazed on the condition.Good luck friend.